For anyone curious about one of the world’s oldest societies and those who love learning and experiencing history, we developed our newest trip just for you. Created in conjunction with the Asia Society, it is aptly titled “Asia Revealed: An Archaeological Journey with Dr. Ye Wa”, allowing the more creative among us to imagine what Indiana Jones might feel like if he was exploring Asia today. For the rest, you’ll enjoy a firsthand experience of historical locations and how they exist today, receive expert insight into how life was like back then, and learn how the two are inextricably linked.

Introducing your Guide: Dr. Ye Wa

 

Dr. Ye Wa | Picture by AsiaTravel

Having completed her Bachelor’s degree in Xi’an, China, Dr.Ye Wa then traveled to the USA for her Master’s of Anthropology which she obtained from the University of Oregon and went on to complete her Ph.D. in Archaeology from UCLA. Her specialty perfectly matches this trip as her studies focused primarily on the Neolithic period and Tang dynasty mortuary practices. Since 2010, she has been co-directing the International Field School of Archaeology at Yangguanzhai in Shaanxi, China. She is currently focusing her efforts on understanding ethnoarchaeological approaches, Neolithic settlement patterns, and the relationship between patterns and specialized pottery production.

What You’ll Uncover: Journey Rundown

For the first three days, you will delve into the culturally and historically significant region in and around modern-day Xi’an including the Terracotta Warriors, the Great Mosque, Yangguanzhai (an 800 square kilometer archaeological dig site), tombs, and grottoes. It really starts you off with a bang, steeping you in the ancient culture and its modern-day reflections. For more present-day delights, you’ll wander through the Muslim Quarter and experience a variety of delicacies and small performances by the vendors.

The Terracotta Warriors in Xi’an | Picture by Scott Swigart on Flickr

Comfortably early on the fourth day, you will jump on a speeding bullet train to head to your next major destination: Tianshui. Before heading to your accommodations, however, you’ll first be whisked off to the Maijishan Grottoes which contain a collection of over 7,000 Buddhist statues and murals boldly inscribed on a hillside rockface. But don’t fret – your luggage will be watched over the entire time and you’ll be able to enjoy the trip unencumbered. In the evening, you will be fascinated by a discussion entitled “Monks and Merchants” between your expert guide, Dr. Ye Wa, and the museum curator.

The Maijishan Grottoes | Pictue by kahumphrey on Flickr

On the following day, you will embark on a day trip to one of the largest remaining carved statues of Buddha in China. Then, after soaking up the history, you will have the evening to explore or relax at your leisure.

Finally, you will journey to the western city of Dunhuang for the remainder of your archaeological adventure. While there, you’ll stand in awe of the Mogao Grottoes, considered the pinnacle of Buddhist art and fashioned across 492 grottoes over the course of a millennium. You will also meet with the Getty Museum team, visit the Yulin Caves, inspect ancient farmland relics in Suoyang, and hear the rumbling sands (as dubbed by Marco Polo) of the Mingsha Sand Dunes. This is only a taste of the activities you’ll get to experience over the course of these days – we should leave some things as surprises, no?

The Mingsha Sand Dunes in Dunhuang | Picture by David Stanley on Flickr

Expert Lectures 

Over the course of this ten-day trip, you will also be treated to three unique expert lectures to help deepen your understanding of what you have seen or will see on the trip. Presented by or in partnership with Dr. Ye Wa, your expert guide, each lecture is part of a three-part series entitled “Conversations with the Past.”

The Silk Road Before the Silk Trade: Communications Between the East and West Prior to the 4th Century A.D.

This lecture will center around one of the largest Neolithic archaeological dig sites in China, Yangguanzhai, which covers an area of 800sqkm. It has been selected as a top 10 national archaeological discovery (first in 2013, then again in 2017). After the lecture, you will enjoy lunch with the director of this massive dig site alongside Dr. Ye, allowing you to partake in a discussion about the Silk Road’s role in establishing communications between the East and the West before the 4th century A.D.

“Monks and Merchants” — Buddhist Grottos Along the Silk Road

In addition to your expert tour guide, you’ll be introduced to Neil Schmid, a Scholar-in-Residence at the Dunhuang Academy. He also happens to be one of the world’s leading authorities on medieval Buddhism’s visual culture. He and the Getty team will provide you insight into their joint efforts with the Dunhuang Museum to promote the conservation of the Mogao caves and the sustainable tourism to these majestic Buddhist locations.

Mogao Grottoes | Picture by AsiaTravel

Conservation of Silk Road Treasures

The final lecture will again involve the Getty Museum team. For this discussion, the team will walk you through their other efforts to understand how to best approach sustainable tourism of the ancient Buddhist location, the Mogao Caves, and how they can conserve the splendor of the locations for years to come.

After all that adventure and history, you’ll be sent off in true AsiaTravel fashion – with a suitcase full of curios and a head full of unforgettable memories.

Featured Image by Songtsam

Founded by award-winning director Baima Duoji, the Songtsam Lodges form the only collection of Luxury, Tibetan-style retreats in the fabled Shangri-La region. Each hotel showcases the scenery, culture, and spirituality of its location, presenting a rounded picture of this renowned region with each lodge spinning its own unique thread.

With spectacular views and an abundance of biodiversity, this region has recognized the increasing demand for sustainable forms of tourism and hopes to protect its spectacular landscapes and rich wildlife. Constructed using unique local materials and artisanal techniques, the Songtsam Lodges have proven themselves to be trailblazers in the field of responsible travel without compromising its high standards to hospitality. Boasting a total of eight different lodges dotted throughout the valleys of the Shangri-La, we’ve painstakingly selected our favorite three, and here’s why.

The Songtsam Shangri-La Lodge | Picture by Songtsam

Songtsam Shangri-La Lodge

Occupying a traditional Tibetan dwelling, the Shangri-La Lodge sits unassumingly in the childhood village of Songtsam’s founder, Baima Duoji. With views framed by mountain ranges in all directions, the flagship hotel offers a gateway to the Tibetan Kingdom in a rustic village setting. The village itself is self-sustainable, showcasing age-old farming practices and hardy beasts at your front door. At a mere ten minutes’ walk from the Sonzanlin Lamasery, you can find inner calm as you practice Tibetan Buddhist meditation at the largest monastery in the whole of Yunnan which is still home to over 700 monks. Whether it’s learning of cultural preservation efforts in Shangri-La Old Town or joining a Tibetan family for dinner, the Songtsam has made significant efforts to bring host and traveler together in a mutually beneficial way. Upon retiring to your room, admire the hotel’s collection of handpicked furniture and intricately woven carpets, featuring modern comfort and Tibetan style in a delicate balancing act. Not far from the border (you can spot Tibetan peaks from the hotel’s open-air roof terrace), this site offers a Tibetan feel without the need for a permit.        

The Songtsam Lodge in Lijiang | Picture by Songtsam

Songtsam Lijiang

At an altitude of 2,400 meters, the Songtsam Lijiang is the lowest of the lodges, marking the start of the Yunnan-Tibet Route, and the perfect opportunity to get acclimatized. The hotel is situated in the traditional Naxi village of Ciman and offers easy access to charming Lijiang while avoiding the touristy old town. Nestled between the Yulong Snow Mountain to the north and the Wenbi Peak in the south, the sprawling lodge connects guests to the striking landscapes of this region through Naxi-style floor-to-ceiling windows. On the larger side of Songtsam lodges, guests can enjoy added bonuses in the form of a fitness center, spa, and outdoor pool. As an important crossroads between Tibetan and Han culture, the hotel reflects the importance of preserving heritage by blending traditional Chinese art and Tibetan-style carpets throughout. For the history buffs, the ancient Horse Tea Trail also passes by the hotel, telling the story of a westerner that lived in Yunnan for over 27 years.

The Songtsam Lodge in Tacheng | Picture by Songtsam

Songtsam Tacheng

Buffeted gently from all sides by fertile, low mountain valleys, Tacheng Lodge finds itself among Tibetan, Naxi, and Lisu ethnic minority communities. The views from each of the lodge’s nine rooms are awash with fertile rice paddies and vineyards, while the outdoor pool offers the perfect chance to unwind after the journey. As part of a farming community, hotel guests can delight in the fresh produce of this bountiful area by hand selecting their own ingredients from the organic gardens. The hotel is also within walking distance of Hadda village, with its black roofs and warm-hearted residents who welcome guests as long-lost friends. Get to the heart of local culture by joining an evening of traditional dance or learning more about the rare Yunnan Golden Snub-Nosed Monkeys which are among the world’s most endangered primates. With views that stretch through the scenic valley, your private terrace is the perfect spot to enjoy the last rays of sun before a restful night’s sleep in rural tranquility.

The Songtsam Lodge in Tacheng | Picture by Songtsam

As individually crafted, boutique hotels, the Songtsam Lodges offer the inquisitive traveler the chance to explore this extremely beautiful region in a personal and responsible manner. Whether it’s tips on the best golden-hour spot or an amusing tale of a runaway yak, the entirely locally-sourced staff reinforces the Songtsam’s grounding in this region, making for a truly unforgettable stay. These may be our three favorite lodges, but there are so many more to explore, each with their individual personality and astounding location. Get in touch to find out more about the different lodges and the option of hopping from our three favorite lodges along our Dreaming of Shangri-La route.

Featured Picture by Pete on Flick

There has been an ocean of ink spilled on the topic of understanding China stemming all the way back to the time of Marco Polo, who some say was the first to really expand the West’s awareness of East Asia. If you’re a reader looking for suggestions to help you better understand one of the most populous, influential countries in the world, look no further than this list of four books to expand your understanding of the Middle Kingdom.

Chinese Lessons: Five Classmates and the Story of the New China

By John Pomfret

This selection is a memoir written from the author’s perspective about the events and experiences that took place while he attended Nanjing University in Beijing during the 1980s. A participant in one of the first student exchange programs between the US and China, Pomfret focuses on the opening of China during the time of Deng Xiaoping’s reforms. It has been praised as an unvarnished, honest, and riveting read that is also popular among ethnic Chinese communities living in America.

Picture by USC Annenberg

It will help you better understand the roots of modern China, how the system works, and the perspectives of the people who live there. As the title implies, it follows five of his classmates, and you will learn how they view their situation, the future they saw for China, and their struggles.

You will enjoy this read if you want to understand the roots of China’s modern economic system, as well as how citizens view their economic and political system.

The Last Days of Old Beijing

By Michael Meyer

Michael Meyer paints an immersive, intimate picture of Beijing from the perspective of one of its oldest neighborhoods as it faces impending demolition at the altar of progress. As the description aptly puts it:

Soon we will be able to say about old Beijing that what emperors, warlords, Japanese invaders, and Communist planners couldn’t eradicate, the market economy has.

Picture by Michael Meyer

The book interweaves stories from the late 2000s with historical events spread across the past millennium. This may be the novel for you if you are planning on visiting China and would like to understand what the capital city used to be and what has become of some of the cultural artifacts as the incessant march of economic advancement continues.

Serve the People: A Stir-Fried Journey Through China

By Jen Lin-Liu

If you’re interested in the vast history and variety behind Chinese cuisine, consider this engaging story that follows the author, Chinese-American Jen Lin-Liu, as she begins studying at a local cooking school without so much as a heater or even a measuring cup and works her way up through street food stands and, eventually, even upper-class Shanghai restaurants. Through her story, she demonstrates that after decades of turmoil and deprivation, the middle class yearned for comfort and luxury.

Picture by LumDimSum

Taking place in the early 2000s during an explosion in new cuisine and experimentation in the cooking scene, the author is able to get behind the local people’s defenses. As Lin-Liu does not clearly look like a foreigner, she is allowed the unique perspective of an American while getting to hear the true feelings of the people she engages with. The book is written in a witty, warm, and endearing fashion that is perfect for anyone who is looking for a close-up perspective of China.

Country Driving

By Peter Hessler

This book is the final in an award-winning trilogy written by the then-New York Times correspondent in China. In 2001, he earned the right to drive in China and spent years – years! – and over 7,000 miles driving around the country’s different regions, following the Great Wall and into the Tibetan Plateau, to see just how the development of the country’s infrastructure affected the people who live there.

Picture by thebeijinger

If you want a fairly in-depth exploration of what it is like to live and travel within China – complete with many of the small, random, “what the heck was that” experiences that can come with life in China as an expat – then this is the book for you. Hessler rents houses in villages, follows one family’s gradual rise to political and financial success, drives the length of the Great Wall, and visits artist communities. This barely scratches the surface of the scope of this book but gives you some idea of the quirky, nitty-gritty world that the author successfully draws the audience into.

All of these books are worth visiting, each showing you a different perspective of China. If you want something from when the country was just opening up, a selection that explores the food side of a cuisine-obsessed culture, or an almost decade-long exploration of the country – they’re all there for you. Whenever you finish any of them, we’d love to hear what you think. Do you feel these stories still apply to modern day China? How do you think things may have changed?

“吃了吗” (chī le ma), so goes the ancient Chinese greeting. Literally meaning “Have you eaten?”, “吃了吗?” is actually used to ask how someone is, the implication being that someone who has eaten must be doing well (of course!). While the saying may have lost its intention in everyday language, the greeting is a clear reflection of China’s fixation with food – and the inspiration behind our latest series: Have You Eaten?

Boasting an impressive eight cuisines across its many distinct regions, the Middle Kingdom is bursting with culinary diversity, causing both confusion and friction when it comes to dinner time. Luckily for you, we’ve put in the legwork to bring you a series of standout restaurants that have made it onto our very own list of favorites. Delving headfirst into the gastronomic narrative, here is the story of RED BOWL.

The latest addition to elegant Rosewood Beijing, RED BOWL offers a one-of-a-kind hot pot experience in the heart of the capital. But first things first, what is Chinese hot pot?

Hotpot at RED BOWL | Picture by Rosewood Beijing

A firm favorite throughout the nation, hot pot traces its history back to times of barbaric rule over a millennium and a half ago. Upon setting up camp for the evening, voyaging Mongol horsemen would use the heat from the fire to simmer soup in their helmets and sear meat upon their shields, making for a comforting and replenishing meal. Spreading throughout Northern China, this process was adapted by dipping vegetables and seafood into a flavorsome broth to cook. Thankfully, helmets were soon swapped out for metal pots – much more sanitary! With a communal pot in the middle of the table, this method of cooking is regarded as a sociable experience and adds an element of fun with its DIY aspect.

A selection of premium-quality meats at RED BOWL | Picture by Rosewood Beijing

As the craze spread, so did creativity. Stretching from the East China Sea to the mountains of Sichuan, hot pots have been adapted and constantly reinvented to reflect the flavors and ingredients of the local region. For example, a visit to Chongqing will see diners burning their lips on the area’s famed pepper-laden broth. Indeed, hot pots embody the diversity of Chinese cuisine, which bring us back to the dilemma of choice…

That’s where RED BOWL comes in. With the admirable goal of creating a world-class experience that appeals to everyone, they’ve reinvigorated the traditional hotpot without sacrificing any of its raw authenticity. But with more hotpot jaunts than you can shake a stick, what is it about RED BOWL’s story that has got us so hooked?

1. They make hotpot accessible for all tastes and styles.

Unlike other restaurants that focus on a specific cuisine with one variety of broth, RED BOWL offers six options, each as lip-smackingly tasty as the next. Pair this with an extensive range of dipping sauces and you have an unapparelled hot pot experience. Don’t worry though, the RED BOWL staff are experts when it comes to pairing the broth to the perfect sauce. Scared of spice? Not a problem. RED BOWL has three spice-free flavors.

Green Pepper Stock at RED BOWL | Picture by Rosewood Beijing

2. They make hot pot chic and fun.

While nothing makes up for poor flavor, we’re firm believers that dining is a multisensory experience and always find ourselves drawn to restaurants that offer both delicious food and great atmosphere. From the second you walk into RED BOWL, the vibe is chic and classy without feeling stuffy. Set upon a backdrop of graffiti-clad walls and smooth hip hop, the space reflects today’s China with its fusion of modernity and tradition. For a spot of fun, take a peek at the cocktail menu. While a slightly unusual pairing for hot pot, these cocktails have been carefully crafted to complement the dishes. Be sure to try the spicy Hot Monkey Vespa which pairs perfectly with the heat of the food.

The chic interiors of RED BOWL | Picture by Rosewood Beijing

3. They use phenomenal ingredients.

Impressively, an abundance of choices doesn’t hamper the quality, with broths that are left bubbling overnight to intensify the flavors and ingredients that are hand selected by Chef de Cuisine Zhu Qing. As well as locally sourced ingredients, RED BOWL makes a bold statement with imported Australian Wagyu Beef and Inner Mongolian Lamb Leg Roll. Plus, with a focus on nothing but the crème de la crème, the scallops are massive and delicious and the fish cheese ball is to die for. Then, guests can wash it all down with inventive takes on classic cocktails to round off their dining experience in style.    

A platter of seafood at RED BOWL | Picture by Rosewood Beijing

The Gin and Tonic at RED BOWL | Picture by Rosewood Beijing

We can’t wait to go back.

To celebrate the announcement of another Tea Horse Road journey with Jeff Fuchs this November, we’re sharing one of our favorite posts of AsiaTravel Explorer and Expert Jeff Fuchs musing on the importance of the Ancient Tea Horse Caravan Road, and why we should all bump it up on our travel list.  

A rugged Jeff Fuchs stares down the lens | Photo by Jeff Fuchs

The Ancient Tea Horse Caravan Road has long held the attention of explorers and vagabonds alike for the fact that it represents one of the globe’s great and daunting adventures. It is a cultural odyssey as much as a physically demanding pathway that brought tea, salt, horses, and all manner of goods from the fringes of the old dynastical empires into and onto the Tibetan Plateau. Pre-dating the Silk Road, the Tea Horse Caravan Road and its meandering pathways through indigenous zones, ancient tea forests, and stunning geographies offer up a deeper look into the very historical fabric of southwest China, Tibet, and beyond.

Across snow passes and over some of the planet’s great waterways, the route takes in three dozen cultures and two dozen languages…all with their own histories with tea and the great trade route.

Tea figured greatly into this ‘highway through the sky’ as it was – and to some extent remains – one of the great panaceas and commodities of time. Tea was more a fuel and medicine to the ancient tribes and its safe transport was one of the great vitals of the trade world.

Yunnan tea farm | Photo by Jeff Fuchs

This AsiaTravel journey along the Ancient Tea Horse Caravan Road seeks to dig into and take the journey back to its roots. Authentic touches of exploration off the beaten path, serious tea-highs from some of the planet’s purest ancient tree teas, and homestays that are entirely integral with delving deeper into a culture and land are on offer. Walking through some of the oldest tea forests on the planet, and then sampling them in a cup bind the leaf to its drinker and, by extension, to any that partake in a cup.

The journey from field to cup begins | Photo by Jeff Fuchs

We’ve enhanced sections to take you deeper still into Yunnan’s diversity and created more of a full-on adventure with daily tea samplings, from fresh bitter harvests to locally prepared specialties (including the Tibetan’s famed and pungent butter tea) from local regions.

I’m delighted that this journey has continued and been intensified to add a more authentic feel that reflects life and travel upon the Tea Horse Caravan Road. In traveling upon this most ancient of trade routes, it is important to retain some of the original feel of travel, life, and interaction for our guests.

It is vital that such a journey keep its vitality and spontaneity. It is only through this kind of travel and attention to detail that a route’s history, legend, and truths can remain intact.

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If Jeff’s descriptions of tea got your heart beating a little faster, check out the itinerary for Jeff’s “Asia Revealed” trip here. If you want to read more about Jeff and his travels, check out his blog here.  And if you have any questions, shoot us an email at info@wildchina.com

Original posted 

As the month of Saka Dawa continues, the Buddhist practice of performing a kora has become increasingly common in this rugged western region. And with visitors to Tibet growing year by year, it has become both important and beneficial to travelers to have an understanding of Tibet’s sacred practices. Without much further ado, here is our specialized guide for everything you need to know about the kora.

The word kora is a transliteration from the Tibetan word kor, meaning circle. The added ‘a’ refers to the Latin ambulare (meaning ‘to walk’), giving an overall meaning of walking around something in a circle, or circumambulation. While the name may have a very practical meaning, its significance is closely linked to Buddhist practice and is sacred to Tibetan life. 

Back in the 6th century, it was very common for the Buddha to spend his time under a tree and, in time, this was where his disciples would come to revere to him. However, it was his disciple Ananda who brought up the question of where devotees would be able to pay their respects in the Buddha’s absence. The Buddha pointed to his usual tree and indicated that walking around it, mindful of the tree’s significance, would be the natural way to pay one’s respects. As time went by, monuments such as the dome-shaped stupas were erected containing relics from the Buddha himself. Much like trees, these stupas were solid structures, meaning worshippers could not enter inside, and the faithful took to walking around the stupas as if they were the Buddha’s favorite tree. So, the practice of circumambulation became a widespread Buddhist custom. 

While paying homage to the founder of Buddhism, the act of circling sacred sites is also said to earn religious merit and ensure a brighter future and closer relationship to the spiritual path. 

So, what does the actual practice of a kora involve, and where can it take place? 

The kora, which is sometimes referred to as a pilgrimage, involves circling any form of sacred site. It can be manmade, such are stupas, temples, and monasteries, or mighty natural sites like lakes and mountains – the infamous Mount Kailash is considered to be the most sacred of all.

During the kora, worshippers will be seen circling clockwise a predefined number of times (each site has a specific number of laps associated). In practice, Buddhists will recite prayers while counting mantras on their rosaries. The idea behind this is that it focuses the physical, verbal, and mental all at once, allowing time for spiritual reflection. Although most Tibetan Buddhists will be seen performing the kora by walking around the sacred site, the most devout will make their way around by fully prostrating, standing up, and repeating the actions from where their extended hands previously reached. An even more extreme version of this form of meditation is the horizontal prostration, where the practiser will make the slow progression in steps no larger than the width of their person.

For the best insight into this sacred practice, there are a select few sites dotted throughout Tibet which are considered to hold deep religious significance and, therefore, attract the largest number of worshippers. 

At the top of the list is Tsekhor Kora, a 3km circuit around the base of the hill upon which the red and white Potala Palace stands. As the residence of the Dalai Lama until 1959, the palace is seen as the center of Tibetan Buddhism and now holds the status of UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is also a must-see while visiting Lhasa.    

Also in Lhasa, the Lingkhor Kora follows the outer boundary of Lhasa District and can take up to four hours to complete just one circuit. On this kora, Tibetan pilgrims can be seen spinning hand wheels and chanting Buddhist scriptures. 

Leaving the crowds of Lhasa behind, pilgrims head to Lake Namtso to circuit one of Tibet’s three holy lakes. While this kora can take between twenty to thirty days to complete, the breathtaking views of crystal-clear waters and snow-capped peaks might encourage you to do a second lap. 

And finally, the most popular kora of all is that which circles Mount Kailash, considered the holiest mountain in the world and of significance to four world religions. This circuit takes around three days to complete, with overnight stops being made at monasteries along the route. 

In a region where religion is so tightly woven into the fabric of Tibetan culture, travelers can’t help but acknowledge the importance of Buddhism. Witnessing and even taking part in a kora is a great way to experience Tibetan life.

As part of our ‘Have You Eaten?’ series, we share our latest foodie-finds that showcase another unique culinary experience on offer in China. This week, we didn’t have to venture far, seizing the opportunity to try out Beijing’s exclusive Black Sesame Kitchen which is well known for using rich Chinese flavors as a lens to bridge culture. While its name has certainly caught traction within the city and beyond, its location is unpretentious which adds to the restaurant’s genuine charm – and contributes to our appetite in trying to find it! Tucked away among a throng of hutong alleyways, BSK is a mere stone’s throw away from the Forbidden City and boasts a traditional courtyard setting. What we really love about this restaurant, though, is its focus on sharing stories, from the narrative behind its creation to the tales shared by fellow diners at the communal meals – and, of course, the food’s pretty spectacular too.  

We caught up with the creative genius behind it all, Jen Lin-Liu. 

Jen Lin-Liu 

After several years working as a foreign journalist in China, American-born Jen Lin-Liu decided to change direction in her life, opting instead to follow her burning passion for food. In a country so obsessed with eating, traditional Chinese recipes, cooking methods, and even ingredients are jam-packed with cultural and historical references, creating a fascinating concept that Jen was keen to tap into. Not one to shy away from a challenge, Jen enrolled at a local cooking school and worked hard to not only understand the lectures from a linguistic point of view but follow the countless cultural nuances dropped throughout the classes. Her constantly-raised hand was an unusual sight among Chinese students and she took her instructor by surprise when he finally realized she was, in fact, American.

Black Sesame Kitchen at a glance through the windows

Returning home each day with a pocketful of new recipes and stories to match, Jen’s expat friends soon became engrossed in this culinary foray into Chinese culture. Jen recognized the importance of food as a lens into the multifaceted daily lives of Beijingers and ultimately made the decision to rent out a small hutong so that she could host lessons and cook dinners for her friends. Word of these evenings quickly spread throughout the expat community and attracted international visitors in the process. Food became a great way to interact with chefs, business people, and other locals in the community, helping to bridge the divide between how a visitor may experience China and what China is actually like on the ground. And so, Black Sesame Kitchen was born. 

Following on from her book, Serving the People, Black Sesame Kitchen became the physical manifestation of how food can be used to bring together a diverse group of people and create a fascinating environment that overcomes cultural divides. During the nightly communal dinners, guests take a seat in the open-plan kitchen-meets-dining room and share in this experience with a constantly changing group of people. You might be seated with another traveler, a Beijing local, an expat living away from home, or any number of other characters – all who bring a unique understanding of life in China.

Courtyard area at Black Sesame Kitchen 

In the elegant open setting that brings together chef and diner, ten delicious courses are served up, each boasting freshly sourced ingredients from local markets. With only one sitting per evening, the experience is intimate and the menu constantly evolves to match current tastes and seasons. Culinary inspiration is drawn from Jen’s book of classical and imperial Chinese cuisine and mixed up with Chef Zhang’s creative flair – the homemade black sesame ice cream with candied seasonal fruit is a definite must-try. Topped off with selected wines to match the dinner’s flavors, the overall experience makes for a relaxing and social evening of good food and new friends.  

Wining and Dining at Black Sesame Kitchen 

If you choose to visit during the day, you’ll discover the secrets of stir-frying and noodle making in Beijing’s back alleys. In addition to its communal dinners, BSK also hosts private cooking lessons on Wednesdays and Sundays which are packed with inspiring foodie stories and tips on how to stock your pantry with the right ingredients. We love how unique this experience can be made, with options such as free-flow champagne or a pre-dinner wine and dumpling demonstration hour.

Baozi, a type of steamed bun 

As a writer, Jen believes in how stories can shape and inspire other people and this could be no more apparent than at the communal table of Black Sesame Kitchen. With limited capacity and a successful reputation, be sure to book in advance! You wouldn’t want to miss out on this incredible culinary experience. 

 

As the capital of the Tibetan Autonomous Region, Lhasa sits high above the clouds, perched along the edge of the Himalayas. A city filled to the brim with culture and history, the sights are plentiful, not to mention the surrounding mountainous landscapes of epic proportions. With so much to see and do, where you choose to rest your weary traveler head at the end of the day does have its perks. Whether it’s rooftop panoramic views or a swanky oxygen bar, here’s the ultimate guide to the best hotels in Lhasa. 

St Regis Hotel

RELATED READING: Top 5 Reasons Why You Should Visit Lhasa

For a night in the thick of it all, stay at the St Regis, located in the ancient Barkhor area of the city – home to Jokhang Temple and the authentic Lhasa. As a collection of rooms, villas, and suites, the St Regis exudes Chinese elegance in a tasteful and relaxing setting. After a day following in the footsteps of Buddhist pilgrims, retreat to the comforts of this hotel and indulge in one of the extravagant treatments at the Iridium Spa. Then, take a soak in the healing, warm waters of the sparkling Golden Energy Pool. With a focus on delivering the art and spirit of Tibet, you’ll be leaving this lofty destination with your head in the clouds and your body rejuvenated.

Songtsam Choski Linka

RELATED READING: Where Can I Visit Tibetan Buddhist Monks?

The homegrown Songtsam brand is the perfect choice to experience Tibetan culture, from the locally-spun thread of the rugs blanketing the floors to the native staff. Enjoying a parkside location, the Songtsam provides epic views over rugged mountains and the shimmering Potala Palace in the distance – the Potala View Deluxe Suite is a must! Boasting over 100 pieces of Tibetan and Chinese textile art, your cultural exploration of this fascinating region begins the moment you put your bags down. As part of a boutique collection of lodges, guests can be assured of an intimate stay that blends warm Tibetan hospitality with ultimate comfort. Songtsam has opened lodges throughout the region and into Yunnan, offering the perfect chance to explore the region at greater depth while staying in authentic accommodations. 

Shangri-La Lhasa

RELATED READING: Do I Need a Permit to Visit Tibet?

If a healthy dose of Chinese opulence in the lap of luxury is what you’re after, then look no further than the Shangri-La. As the inspiration for the brand, the fabled Shangri-La is a paradise for travelers high up in the Himalayas, where the tales from James Hilton’s ‘Lost Horizon’ leap off the page. Guests will find a copy of the book in every room – perfect for indulging in an inspirational chapter or two before bed. The Shangri-La remains faithful to its high standards with posh rooms and, for those not yet acclimatized, a 24-hour oxygen lounge. Finding itself between the Potala Palace to the east and the Summer Residence to the west, the hotel is perfectly situated to explore the best Lhasa has to offer. After a day of sightseeing, enjoy sundowners on the roof terrace with 200-degree views over the undulating landscape.

Four Points by Sheraton Lhasa

RELATED READING: Where You Should Go in Tibet

A convenient 10-minute stroll from Jokhang Temple, the Four Points lies in the east of the city and radiates peace and quiet. With its inviting, comfortably simple furnishings and renowned Sheraton service, this hotel delivers world-class hospitality to ensure only the most enjoyable of stays. After a long day exploring Lhasa’s treasures, guests can unwind in the Asian-style courtyard or retire up on the roof terrace. Or for something even more indulgent, a range of soothing treatments are on offer in the Bayemedo Massage Room. For the short of breath among you, oxygen facilities are provided upon request.

While Helen of Troy was the face that launched a thousand ships, pu’er tea was the beverage that paved the ancient Tea Horse Road. Fifteen hundred years ago, pu’er was a humble tea that rarely left the confines of Yunnan. But, sometime around the 7th century, something changed.

The Origins of Pu’er

Some say that merchants first learned of the tea when the ancient Tibetan Kingdom of Tubo controlled much of what is now Yunnan. Others say it was the union of the Tang Dynasty’s Princess Wencheng and Tibetan King Songtsän Gampo that led to its introduction. One thing is certain: the leaves that were once being enjoyed only by the ethnic minority groups that tended to them had found their way into the cups of emperors in northern China and Tibetans on the Himalayan Plateau. Soon enough, the thirst for pu’er was so unquenchable that an entire network was developed to carry the leaves out of the province and over the mountains, trading bricks of tea for Tibetan warhorses, precious silver, and salt.

“Under a shade tree – tea mountain Pu’er, Yunnan, China” by BryonLippincott is licensed under CC BY-ND 2.0 

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The roots of pu’er can be found in southwestern Yunnan, near the subtropical Eden of Xishuangbanna. In the heart of the Tea Belt – an area that extends from Assam in India to northern Vietnam – the home of pu’er is no less than the crux of the species. Hidden high in the region’s misty mountains, ancient tea trees – some of which are over 1,200 years old – have been cultivated by hill minorities like the Dai and Aini for over a millennium. Using knowledge that has been passed down through generations, farmers trek through remote jungles to reach clandestine groves. There, they tend to both wild-growing and specifically planted trees before handpicking the large, soft leaves and beginning the painstaking production process which is closer to an art than a science.

Making a Mighty Brew

Named for the town that served as the collection and trading hub for the area’s tea mountains, pu’er has many related spellings (among them pu’er, pu-erh, pu erh, puerh, pu-er, pu er, and puer). Although the legendary tea is known by many names, there are just three criteria that must be met in order for a tea to be given the coveted title of pu’er. First, leaves must be picked from a broad-leaf tea tree (generally Camelia sinensis var. assamica, for all the tea connoisseurs out there). Second, like Champagne and its namesake region in France, production must occur in Yunnan. Finally, the leaves must be dried in the sun (not in an oven – that’s cheating). After being picked, the incredibly precise production process begins. Leaves are laid out to wilt for a few hours in the sun. Then, they are quickly fired in a wok over a gentle wood-burning fire to ‘kill the green’ (known as sha qing in Chinese) and stop oxidation. However, the farmers must watch the leaves carefully. Heating them too long takes away all moisture and kills the natural bacteria which are vital to the fermentation and aging of the pu’er. After the firing, leaves are rolled, shaped, and spread out to dry again in the Yunnan sunshine and initiate post-fermentation. It’s here in this last step where the magic alchemy of pu’er tea occurs.

 “Dry the tea” by Jeff Fuchs

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The invention of pu’er as we know it today is something that can only be described as culinary magic, a result of happenstance and fluke conditions, which takes us back to the ancient trade network known as the Tea Horse Road. To accommodate the insatiable thirst for tea of Tibetans and the imperial class, caravans of merchants would compress the tea leaves into bricks, wrap them in bamboo, and then strap them to the backs of horses, mules, and other pack animals to make them easier to carry. Long distances and rough terrain meant that the tea could be traveling for months, or even years, before finally reaching its destination.

But, during the journey, something happened – the pu’er changed. In an act that can only be described as gastronomic serendipity, the tea’s exposure to sweat, the elements, and shifting climates not only changed its color from green to earthen teak, but the flavor became richer, smoother, and fruitier. Like a fine merlot, aging and a natural fermentation process while traveling caused the tea to evolve into something not only uniquely delicious but also medicinal and highly sought-after.

Pu’er Today

Over the years, the desire for pu’er mellowed somewhat, its drinkers largely confined to Yunnan. Until again, starting in the late 1990s, something happened. Investors from first-tier cities in China and then the rest of the world began streaming in. Tea that had once sold for pennies a kilo skyrocketed to hundreds of dollars by the mid-2000s. While the bubble burst temporarily in 2007 and sent prices plummeting, it is on the rise once more, with 350g discs aged 70 years ringing in at thousands of dollars, and there are no signs of stopping. Pu’er, once a humble tea of Yunnan, is again the Helen of Troy of tea.

“realchinatea (40 of 131).jpg” by mmoscosa is licensed under CC BY 2.0

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In spite of the demand and the temptation to cut corners, Yunnan’s hill minorities carry on the tradition of pu’er set forth by their ancestors generations ago. Tending to the trees with the skill and dedication of a vigneron nurturing their vines, many farmers devote their whole lives to fashioning the perfect cup of tea.

To delve into the past and present of this precious commodity, contact us now to learn more about our upcoming journey back to pu’er’s roots with Jeff Fuchs and Traversing the Ancient Tea Horse Road. After hiking to the ancient tea tree forests, you’ll sit down with the descendants of the first tea cultivators for a pot of tea and a memory that is literally millennia in the making. We hope you’ll join us for a cup of tea.

The history of tea is almost as long as the history of China itself. Given that the Middle Kingdom is one of the oldest civilizations in the world, that is no small statement. In fact, although the oldest known written records of the country’s history date to the ancient Shang Dynasty in 1250 BC, Chinese legend has it that tea’s story began much earlier. Over a thousand years earlier.  

A Tale of Tea

The story goes that Emperor Shen Nong – a legendary leader and renowned herbalist – was relaxing beneath a tree in what is now Yunnan province back in 2737 BC. While a nearby servant boiled drinking water to help soothe the emperor’s throat, a breeze blew a few leaves off the tree under which Shen Nong rested and landed in the pot. Rather than waste the water, he decided to taste the accidental infusion and was surprised to discover the brew was both delicious and refreshing. Following that fateful day, tea remained a largely regional phenomenon, filling the cups of Yunnan’s ethnic minorities as a medicinal tonic, until the 7th century when the sprawling network of the ancient Tea Horse Road delivered the leaves to Beijing, Tibet, and beyond. What followed can only be described as a love affair with tea that has not just persisted throughout the years, but veritably saturated China’s culture. 

Tea and hospitality go hand in hand in China

By Benjamin Chodroff – Licensed under CC BY-NC-ND 2.0 

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While tea holds the distinguished honor of China’s national beverage, it is so much more than a beloved drink. Upon your first step into a Chinese home, a cup of tea is immediately offered. Often, the cup is filled only seven-tenths of the way full – not to leave room for any desired additions, but to save space for the friendship and affection that fills the other three-tenths. Tea is also often used in other aspects of daily life like medicine and cooking. What’s more, there are entire cultural traditions, ceremonies, and customs built around tea. 

From how the water is boiled and poured (first over the teapot to warm it and then into the pot to brew), to the way in which the tea should be enjoyed (take in the aroma of the tea by sniffing the fragrant cup first before tasting), each step in the process is carefully choreographed. Even the specialized utensils necessary in traditional tea-drinking contributed to the stimulation of China’s famous porcelain industry. However, nowhere can you find tea traditions and rituals as rich (both culturally and nutritionally) as those found in the homes of Yunnan’s ethnic minorities, the original tea drinkers. 

The second (sweet) cup in a traditional Bai Minority ‘Three Cups of Tea’ ceremony

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The Tea of Life

In Dali, the indigenous Bai people honor their guests with the symbolic Three Cups of Tea ceremony, known as san dao cha, the roots of which can be traced back to the Tang Dynasty and the Tea Horse Road. The ceremony calls on the drinker to first smell, then taste, and finally drink a variety of three unique teas and encourages guests to reflect upon the rollercoaster of life. 

The bitter-tasting initial cup, called lei xiang cha or ‘thundering tea’, represents the hardships one faces in life. First, tea leaves are baked in a clay pot over a gentle fire. Once the tea’s fragrance fills the air, boiling water is poured into the pot, creating violent and loud bubbles that give the tea its name. Once the bubbling stops, the tea – an aromatic and incredibly concentrated infusion – is ready to drink. 

The second tea, symbolizing the happiness that comes from conquering life’s challenges, is blissfully sweet. Almost soup-like, the local tea is brewed with walnuts, brown sugar, and a regional blend of other ingredients (such as orange zest or a cow’s milk cheese called rushan). 

The third and final tea, known as hui wei cha or ‘lingering tea’, is a complex mélange of tastes and ingredients. Bitter, sweet, and spicy all at once, the flavors of this cup create a powerful aftertaste that lingers on the drinker’s tongue long after the last sip and signifies both the bitter and sweet memories that one is left with. 

Tibetan Butter Tea

By xmascarol – Licensed under CC BY-NC-ND 2.0 

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Tea at 14,800 Feet

Over the mountains and onto the Tibetan Plateau, the region’s ethnic Tibetans take tea drinking to a level that borders on obsession. Downing up to 40 cups of the stuff each day, it’s this infatuation that quite literally served as a building block for the Tea Horse Road. After discovering it during the Tang Dynasty, Tibetans realized that the nutritional benefits created during pu’er tea’s aging and fermentation eased the deficiencies caused by their high-fat, dairy-based diet and the stress of living at high altitudes in extreme weather conditions. And so, demand for the beverage skyrocketed. However, no ordinary tea will do. Instead, Tibetans enjoy a pu’er tea-based drink (some would argue soup) known as bod ja or butter tea. The tea is boiled for a least an hour before ultimately being churned together with a dollop of yak butter and a handful of salt and finished with a sprinkle of roasted barley flour known as tsampa. No visit to a Tibetan home is without an offering of butter tea. Etiquette dictates that your tea bowl is never empty, and so each sip is followed by pouring the concoction back to the brim. 

For China, tea is much more than a beverage or a way to unwind at the end of a long day. It is a way of life – a vessel with which to view the world and honor centuries of tradition. For travelers to the Middle Kingdom, there is no better way to understand the vast array of cultures and deep history than through the unifying lens of tea. 

Join us on our upcoming journey, Traversing the Ancient Tea Horse Road with Jeff Fuchs, and explore the roots of not just tea, but the ethnic minority groups that call Yunnan home – with a cup of Tibetan butter tea in hand.